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- THE GULF WAR, Page 29Encounter in a Baghdad Cafe
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- The restaurant sits near the banks of the Tigris River, from
- which fishermen haul out the masgouf -- the big carp that are
- cooked over wood fires and served as a local favorite. Our
- guest, just days before the war, was a young man who had been
- translating the Iraqi press so that we could understand what
- the government was telling its people. He arrived a bit late.
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- As he was seated, his eyes darted around the room, scanning
- the other guests. He began to perspire and stammer, suddenly
- making excuses that he had to get back to work.
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- The reason was soon clear. When the burly man sitting with
- his back to our table rose to leave, he was quickly surrounded
- by soldiers assigned as bodyguards. It was Saddam Hussein's son
- Uday, 27, whose most notable accomplishment in his relatively
- young life was to have beaten a presidential bodyguard to death
- with a club.
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- The young translator had been helpful and relaxed for days,
- joining us for meals, discussing his hopes and his family's
- plans. It did not seem to matter that we were citizens of a
- nation that was headed for war with his country. Nor did it
- seem to matter to the scores of other Iraqis we encountered:
- shopkeepers, hoteliers and even the government functionaries
- minding our comings and goings in Baghdad. The doctors tending
- the dying, the security people searching our baggage, the
- smiling three-year-old son of a government official -- all were
- strikingly cordial.
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- As the war rumbles on, as young Americans and their allies
- are killed, we will demonize not just Saddam Hussein but all
- Iraqis. That will be unfortunate because the people of Iraq
- don't really deserve the leadership they have.
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- There is in Baghdad the feeling of a huge new Jonestown,
- with another demented preacher leading his flock to death. The
- isolation is profound. The awareness of the real world limited.
- The government of Saddam is deeply paranoiac. Officials read
- single events as connected by strands of conspiracies. Even the
- Information Minister, not part of the most powerful circle
- around Saddam, worries enough about his welfare to have at his
- side a guard armed with an AK-47.
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- These malignant men shot their way to power. They have
- ruined their country to preserve their might and exorcise the
- demons loose in their heads. They may sacrifice tens of
- thousands of Iraqi soldiers in the deathtrap they have built
- in Kuwait, believing this will make them Arab heroes, not, in
- effect, the murderers of their countrymen. They imagine
- everyone as an enemy. Soon everyone will be.
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- By John F. Stacks/Baghdad.
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